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Appendix: List of symbols
c„
c
g 0
D
E
E
deep
f
8
h
h 0
^deep
Ah
H
TJ
1 deep
i
E
L h
^deep
P
Po
Pb
Phs
Pn
/
P
Pb
Pi
Qe
r
S
s A
deep
t
T
T
deep
T
short
u
u + ,u
u h
li ,
propagation velocity of a wave train
reference propagation velocity
dissipation of energy
wave energy
wave energy in deep water
arbitrary function
friction force
- horizontal component
- vertical component
gravitational acceleration
undisturbed water depth
reference water depth
reference deep water depth
characteristic change in bottom topography
wave height (twice the amplitude)
deep water wave height
unit vector in the direction of wave propagation
wave length
characteristic length for change in bottom topography
deep water wave length
pressure
reference pressure
pressure (Boussinesq equations)
pressure (hydrostatic equations)
surface pressure
perturbation pressure (linear, non-hydrostatic)
perturbation pressure (Boussinesq equations)
perturbation pressure (nonlinear, hydrostatic)
net source function for wave energy
vertical coordinate
wave steepness
deep water wave
time
wave period
deep water wave period
short wave period
horizontal current velocity
partial solutions for u
solution at the boundary of external and internal domain
solution in an external spatial area